Day 15 - Portugalete (Nr Bilbao)
Last day in Spain and we chose to do the final 142 miles through the middle of the mountains again from Legroño to Portugalete which is right next to the coast and about 5 mins from where our boat leaves from the following morning.
The trip though today's mountains was similarly beautiful to previous days BUT the roads we chose to go on were not on any maps and we relied on the sun (yes, really) to make sure we were going in the right direction till we found one that was on our map: we went for at least an hour before this happened tho'.
In Legroño we had a small bar in our hotel and we had a drink having been served by the hotel receptionist who then left us to it. Could've stayed all night for free if we'd wanted.
Yesterday we went past a place called WOK999 - a pay-to-get-in-and-eat-as-much-as-you-like place.
We did this and had a fab. meal. The idea was to choose what you wanted, raw, and then get the chef to cook it. Then go back for more.
We rather over-did it and once we got back to the hotel deb lay on the floor groaning saying ''I can't move. Why did you make me eat so much?'' Rob didn't really have an answer, of course.
Next day we travelled to Portugalete. On the way we popped into Guernica, of Picasso fame and there's a good book about the village being bombed in WW2.
We stopped for a coffee - the cool thing about journeying on a bike is that you can park anywhere for free too.
It was market day and so nowhere for cars to park. We chose this spot 'cos there was shade and it was close to coffee!
Guernica market was here - a lively, aromatic place where we bought dried pepper skins, three kinds of cheese and fruit.
ll over the place, in Spain, are signs of building. There were quite a few bridges/fly-overs in mid-creation. They start with the posts.....and then, presumably, put the road on top afterwards!
When we arrived in Portugalete the hotel we had booked was dark and dingy. Their phones were not working, towels not in the room (drying on the washing line) and the WiFi also not running. At least the beds were quite comfy and there was running water in the bathroom. We were set for a dismal last night BUT when we walked out into the town we found out it was the eve of the Portugalete Fete (these last FOUR days in Spain) and the evening was well and truly underway quite early. It was Monday......so Tues/Weds/Thurs/Fri for partying and Sat/Sun to recover. All very Spanish...and commendable.
Over the waterway that leads to Bilbao there is a bridge, built in 1893 and has a suspended cradle that can transport 6 cars and 200 people over the water. It does this all day. We went one way in the cradle and then went up the left 'leg' (62 metres high) and walked across the top and then down the side we started on. All good fun but a bit scary up high.
Here's the 'cradle' coming in - you can see the 6 wires that suspend it from the structure above.
This pic is on top before we actually walked over the water. You could easily see through the slats in the floor and the whole thing swayed around a little giving an uncomfortable, nervy flavour to the whole trip-ette.
Quite early on the party was already rolling - difficult to get a table or seat anywhere but it was easy to get a tapas and drink from the 12 or so street bars that lined the harbour wall!
We saw many folk drinking 'pintas' of half CocaCola and half Red wine. Sounded disgusting until a barmaid told us to try it before passing judgement. We did, liked it, and had a couple.
Foodwise you could do this...................
........or this.
ALL NIGHT!
.
.........so we did! Then back to the dingy accommodation with meagre breakfast. Trip to the boat was about 5 minutes and then a swell filled, stomach churning trip to Portsmouth. Bikes are all strapped down together in the lowest level of the boat. 182 miles from Portsmouth home to proper tea and a couple of days swaying residue from the swoopy crossing. Great to be home but we had a fab. time.
Honda Goldwing GL1500SE is now on EBay - beautiful but Rob has had to choose between 'old Wing and NewWing and having built the old one he feels inclined to continue shining that one. Also he might get a slightly sportier, smaller bike to keep up with the boy next door
Thanks for reading, keeping up with our trip. There hundreds more pics and videos and if anyone feels inclined then pop to Mill Farm Cottage and we can look through some of them over some wine and coke!
Over and out.
Tra-la-la,
Rob and Debbie
Rob and Debbie in Spain '12
This blog maps our 30th Anniversary trip around Spain from 29th July till 15th August '12 on the Goldwing GL1500.
Thursday, 16 August 2012
Sunday, 12 August 2012
Day 14 - Logroño - second day
Day 14 - Logroño - Day 2
Another lazy day for us having decided not to get on the bike again. There're only about 150 kms back to Bilbao from here and we'll probably take our last mountainous route so making it quite a bit longer.
Last night we wandered and wandered trying to find somewhere that was firstly not just a drinking and tapas place and not expensive. We hadn't eaten properly, in other words a meal, for ages and felt we deserved some good feeding. We found a 'menu' at a set price which looked good. The starters were a long list of eight - we thought we'd have to choose one but it turned out that they brought al eight one after the other. Very delicious. Only vino tinto (red wine) was allowed, so we had that and were well nourished by the end.
It was quite amusing that in the middle of it all the rubbish men arrived - it was about 10.30pm and the waitresses had to move umbrellas out the way so the (grumpy) workers could get through and take the rubbish away. I took a video - of course!
Logroño is another pretty place and there are plenty of calm streets where one can lazily stroll about, large plazas full of plane trees to offer shade and not too much traffic. car drivers stop for pedestrians and everyone is polite and helpful.
Here're some pics.
This was about 7.30pm. Very early so not many people about. We had a beer here, just to the left, and it was amazing how much heat the wall on the left emitted having been warmed up all day.
Here we are Sunday morning at about 10.30 having gone to Tourist Information and found out we should cme back in September to take advantage of visiting the wineries and bodegas.
There were no tours and we'd have had to phone up and arrange a private trip with a bodega of our choice......we didn't really want to do this so went for and amazing breakfast instead of fresh orange juice, fiery chilli-fied tortilla and coffee. The waitress earned herself a good tip for complimenting Rob for his good Castellano (ie proper Spanish)
A large plaza with plane trees. Quite often airy and breaking up the increasing heat making it really pleasant to walk through.
If you stood next to the tree in the picture above and looked the other way you would see this. A narrow-ish street with one of the cathedral spires at the end. We popped into the cathedral as they were coming to the end of the service. Lots and lots of rucksacks in there showing the the Camino de Santiago is not just a hike for many and still remains a proper pilgrimage.
We didn't feel like going out for lunch so we bought huge peaches, succulent tomatoes, a media baguette, pears and a couple of beers and sat in the cool of this smaller plaza near our hotel and had a very civilized Sunday Lunch.
The afternoon was spent by the pool for Debbie - after a siesta, of course, and watching the Rise to success of JK Rowling in spanish on the telly.
Back to Bilbao tomorrow.
Another lazy day for us having decided not to get on the bike again. There're only about 150 kms back to Bilbao from here and we'll probably take our last mountainous route so making it quite a bit longer.
Last night we wandered and wandered trying to find somewhere that was firstly not just a drinking and tapas place and not expensive. We hadn't eaten properly, in other words a meal, for ages and felt we deserved some good feeding. We found a 'menu' at a set price which looked good. The starters were a long list of eight - we thought we'd have to choose one but it turned out that they brought al eight one after the other. Very delicious. Only vino tinto (red wine) was allowed, so we had that and were well nourished by the end.
It was quite amusing that in the middle of it all the rubbish men arrived - it was about 10.30pm and the waitresses had to move umbrellas out the way so the (grumpy) workers could get through and take the rubbish away. I took a video - of course!
Logroño is another pretty place and there are plenty of calm streets where one can lazily stroll about, large plazas full of plane trees to offer shade and not too much traffic. car drivers stop for pedestrians and everyone is polite and helpful.
Here're some pics.
This was about 7.30pm. Very early so not many people about. We had a beer here, just to the left, and it was amazing how much heat the wall on the left emitted having been warmed up all day.
Here we are Sunday morning at about 10.30 having gone to Tourist Information and found out we should cme back in September to take advantage of visiting the wineries and bodegas.
There were no tours and we'd have had to phone up and arrange a private trip with a bodega of our choice......we didn't really want to do this so went for and amazing breakfast instead of fresh orange juice, fiery chilli-fied tortilla and coffee. The waitress earned herself a good tip for complimenting Rob for his good Castellano (ie proper Spanish)
A large plaza with plane trees. Quite often airy and breaking up the increasing heat making it really pleasant to walk through.
If you stood next to the tree in the picture above and looked the other way you would see this. A narrow-ish street with one of the cathedral spires at the end. We popped into the cathedral as they were coming to the end of the service. Lots and lots of rucksacks in there showing the the Camino de Santiago is not just a hike for many and still remains a proper pilgrimage.
We didn't feel like going out for lunch so we bought huge peaches, succulent tomatoes, a media baguette, pears and a couple of beers and sat in the cool of this smaller plaza near our hotel and had a very civilized Sunday Lunch.
The afternoon was spent by the pool for Debbie - after a siesta, of course, and watching the Rise to success of JK Rowling in spanish on the telly.
Back to Bilbao tomorrow.
Saturday, 11 August 2012
Day 13 - Logroño
Day 13 - Logroño - Rioja
Well here we are in Logroño and Rob will have to use lots of 'ñs' over the next couple of days: pronounced en-yays, just in case you were wondering.
But first of all Oviedo.... city of STUPID traffic lights and ripping-off-tourists. Beautiful place tho' with wide streets and marble steps everywhere. The Ruta de Vinos - ie a street with lots of cafes serving wine - was so full by the time we got there that no tables or seats were available (....er....well... the second time we went anyway!) Another gripe was that on the hottest day of our trip the air-conditioning (a main consideration when booking a hotel) didn't work and, by the time we got back to the hotel bar, they'd run out of white wine!
We did, however, manage to get into a cider place (earlier) - apparently the area is famous for cider and especially cider pouring from a great height. We were not sure if it tasted very pleasant but it was good to 'do' it. Watch this cheery man do his stuff - what a way to make a living...sorry it's sideways but we'll have missed even more it it was landscape. Got charged a fortune for a plate of cheese 'cos we didn't sort out the price first (rule one in a tourist town is to do this) but it was quite pleasant: we paid up, WITH a tip, and forgot about it!
Oviedo is such a pretty place. Lovely cathedral with off-centre spire and wide streets with lots of space and great buildings. We have more pics but those reserved for those who are interested at a later stage.
Today's ride from Oviedo to Logroño was 274 miles and quite a mission. Although the temperature was 37 degrees there was a good sidewind that took the sting out of the heat in the afternoon. We went through the most spectacular mountains yet and there are quite a few candidates for Rob's next screen saver. Here's one of them - but there're quite a few as good later on. And while you are thinking about it - NO I am not on a film set in front of someone else's picture.
We had such a great day's riding and stopped to chat to another couple sharing what was coming up - they were going the other way from about this point - see next pic.....
It really did look much more expansive than this, breathtaking and not hot as there was a strong breeze to take the heat away. This photo was taken on the border between Asturias District and Castilla y Leon District. Behind quite green and lush and ahead - as in this one (above) dry and rocky.
We rode around this lake and, again, it is noticeable how low the water level is but the whole surrounding scenery spectacular and massive in perspective.
Over the other side, as you can see in the next pic, it is much drier and arid. The temperature rose sharply and even though there was a strong sidewind which allayed the strength of the heat we cooked in our motorbike clothing with British Standard Protection security. We wished we had the confidence to shed layers but when you watch the video that follows this pic you see why we kept all our armour on.
Next is the video of our descent from about 1500m to the Rioja Plain. So hot and so dry but good roads...er.....AFTER the video sequence..... and so we made good headway to do our 274 miles in about 8 hours with lots of mountain roads like THIS in between 60mph easiness.
Now we're in Logroño, which seems really pleasant - free bike parking, a swimming pool in our hotel, really easy ride into town and WORKING air-conditioning and fridge.
We're off into the centre of town now to see what's what - and we'll try to organise a trip round some Rioja bodegas for tomorrow without having to get on the bike. Sound fun eh!
Well here we are in Logroño and Rob will have to use lots of 'ñs' over the next couple of days: pronounced en-yays, just in case you were wondering.
But first of all Oviedo.... city of STUPID traffic lights and ripping-off-tourists. Beautiful place tho' with wide streets and marble steps everywhere. The Ruta de Vinos - ie a street with lots of cafes serving wine - was so full by the time we got there that no tables or seats were available (....er....well... the second time we went anyway!) Another gripe was that on the hottest day of our trip the air-conditioning (a main consideration when booking a hotel) didn't work and, by the time we got back to the hotel bar, they'd run out of white wine!
We did, however, manage to get into a cider place (earlier) - apparently the area is famous for cider and especially cider pouring from a great height. We were not sure if it tasted very pleasant but it was good to 'do' it. Watch this cheery man do his stuff - what a way to make a living...sorry it's sideways but we'll have missed even more it it was landscape. Got charged a fortune for a plate of cheese 'cos we didn't sort out the price first (rule one in a tourist town is to do this) but it was quite pleasant: we paid up, WITH a tip, and forgot about it!
![]() |
| Oviedo Cathedral |
Oviedo is such a pretty place. Lovely cathedral with off-centre spire and wide streets with lots of space and great buildings. We have more pics but those reserved for those who are interested at a later stage.
Today's ride from Oviedo to Logroño was 274 miles and quite a mission. Although the temperature was 37 degrees there was a good sidewind that took the sting out of the heat in the afternoon. We went through the most spectacular mountains yet and there are quite a few candidates for Rob's next screen saver. Here's one of them - but there're quite a few as good later on. And while you are thinking about it - NO I am not on a film set in front of someone else's picture.
We had such a great day's riding and stopped to chat to another couple sharing what was coming up - they were going the other way from about this point - see next pic.....
It really did look much more expansive than this, breathtaking and not hot as there was a strong breeze to take the heat away. This photo was taken on the border between Asturias District and Castilla y Leon District. Behind quite green and lush and ahead - as in this one (above) dry and rocky.
We rode around this lake and, again, it is noticeable how low the water level is but the whole surrounding scenery spectacular and massive in perspective.
Over the other side, as you can see in the next pic, it is much drier and arid. The temperature rose sharply and even though there was a strong sidewind which allayed the strength of the heat we cooked in our motorbike clothing with British Standard Protection security. We wished we had the confidence to shed layers but when you watch the video that follows this pic you see why we kept all our armour on.
Next is the video of our descent from about 1500m to the Rioja Plain. So hot and so dry but good roads...er.....AFTER the video sequence..... and so we made good headway to do our 274 miles in about 8 hours with lots of mountain roads like THIS in between 60mph easiness.
Now we're in Logroño, which seems really pleasant - free bike parking, a swimming pool in our hotel, really easy ride into town and WORKING air-conditioning and fridge.
We're off into the centre of town now to see what's what - and we'll try to organise a trip round some Rioja bodegas for tomorrow without having to get on the bike. Sound fun eh!
Friday, 10 August 2012
Day 12 - Oviedo
Day 12 - Biking to Oviedo
When we looked at the weather forecast for today it was quoting figures of 44-45 degrees in the South and interior and so we are very pleased that we are not there! Even so, today was one of the hottest we can remember. We had to dash into a garage at one point, much to the amusement of the pump filler men, and stand in front of their fan in their office gulping down cold drinks and water plus an helado (ice cream) for Debbie!
Last night we went in to Coruña for the last time: a perfect evening wandering around berthed Tall Ships and then off into the town for tapas and a couple of beers. T'was getting warm - one could feel it in the air - but a lovely evening temperature for laziness and eating both big and mini octopus! Yummy!
A pic of the harbour in the evening light. Masts of Tall Ships with flags of previous excursions.
This morning we saw quite a few other very big clippers coming in under motor as we left for our ride to Oviedo through the mountains.
Lunch today was so very hot - probably in the region of 39 degrees - a bit cooler than in the interior tho'. We saw this picnic site on our was through the mountains and popped into the next village to a shop. We bought a baguette, Iberian jamon (smoked ham), cheese and and cold drinks and ate them here in the cool mountain breeze. Idyllic.
So pleasant so that I did a video as well!
In the mountains the scenery was more spectacular than ever. The roads were great to ride even though it was so hot, rather unbearable, in fact.
This deserted town and dam workings was interesting... all seemed as if it was very active at one point but not a soul to be seen - all derelict and abandoned.
We took quite a few pics of 'big' views. The countryside was all from very high up and we went through passes of about 1150m a couple of times. You can see in this one the roads we went on to get here.
We were aware of the lack of water in the fields in this part of the country - over in the west it all seemed green and vibrant but here not so good.
Water level in this dam was very low and, if you look carefully you can see the houses that should've been under water and derelict standing as if ruined by other means. The edge of the water also showing the usual water level.
We passed though many pretty villages and their grain stores more elaborate than in Galicia looking like another extension to houses with little balconies and windows.
Some were really elaborate, like these, each one competing with the house next door.
Lastly I've been going on and on what great roads are here to ride and here's a video of what I mean. You can see it is a really busy road - a motorbike (who waved as usual) and a car coming the other way but great bends and good surface, perfect for a safe and interesting journey. I hope no-one is sick watching this!
When we looked at the weather forecast for today it was quoting figures of 44-45 degrees in the South and interior and so we are very pleased that we are not there! Even so, today was one of the hottest we can remember. We had to dash into a garage at one point, much to the amusement of the pump filler men, and stand in front of their fan in their office gulping down cold drinks and water plus an helado (ice cream) for Debbie!
Last night we went in to Coruña for the last time: a perfect evening wandering around berthed Tall Ships and then off into the town for tapas and a couple of beers. T'was getting warm - one could feel it in the air - but a lovely evening temperature for laziness and eating both big and mini octopus! Yummy!
![]() |
| Tall Ships in harbour - evening sunlight |
A pic of the harbour in the evening light. Masts of Tall Ships with flags of previous excursions.
This morning we saw quite a few other very big clippers coming in under motor as we left for our ride to Oviedo through the mountains.
Lunch today was so very hot - probably in the region of 39 degrees - a bit cooler than in the interior tho'. We saw this picnic site on our was through the mountains and popped into the next village to a shop. We bought a baguette, Iberian jamon (smoked ham), cheese and and cold drinks and ate them here in the cool mountain breeze. Idyllic.
So pleasant so that I did a video as well!
In the mountains the scenery was more spectacular than ever. The roads were great to ride even though it was so hot, rather unbearable, in fact.
This deserted town and dam workings was interesting... all seemed as if it was very active at one point but not a soul to be seen - all derelict and abandoned.
We took quite a few pics of 'big' views. The countryside was all from very high up and we went through passes of about 1150m a couple of times. You can see in this one the roads we went on to get here.
We were aware of the lack of water in the fields in this part of the country - over in the west it all seemed green and vibrant but here not so good.
Water level in this dam was very low and, if you look carefully you can see the houses that should've been under water and derelict standing as if ruined by other means. The edge of the water also showing the usual water level.
We passed though many pretty villages and their grain stores more elaborate than in Galicia looking like another extension to houses with little balconies and windows.
Some were really elaborate, like these, each one competing with the house next door.
Lastly I've been going on and on what great roads are here to ride and here's a video of what I mean. You can see it is a really busy road - a motorbike (who waved as usual) and a car coming the other way but great bends and good surface, perfect for a safe and interesting journey. I hope no-one is sick watching this!
Thursday, 9 August 2012
Day 11 - A Coruña - 3rd day
Day 11 - A Coruña - 3rd Day
Today has been a another off-the-bike day after quite a long riding session yesterday which was about 8 hours 'in the saddle'. We decided that we'd take the bus halfway to town and then walk right round the peninsula. Took us about 3 hours without any stops: there weren't any coffee shops nor street vendors but about an hour and half in we got to the Hercules Tower: more of that later on. We started at the main beach front in A Coruña which looked like this in the early morning mist - by early morning I mean by the time we'd got there by bus and walked ...er....about 9.30am.
Today has been a another off-the-bike day after quite a long riding session yesterday which was about 8 hours 'in the saddle'. We decided that we'd take the bus halfway to town and then walk right round the peninsula. Took us about 3 hours without any stops: there weren't any coffee shops nor street vendors but about an hour and half in we got to the Hercules Tower: more of that later on. We started at the main beach front in A Coruña which looked like this in the early morning mist - by early morning I mean by the time we'd got there by bus and walked ...er....about 9.30am.
![]() |
| Beach in A Coruña - we walked right round this in 20 mins |
From here you can't see the Hercules Tower 'cos it is still quite a way round the coast - we walked around this beach along a wide promenade shared with runners (lots of these), cyclists (who had their own two-way bit of road) and lots of walkers of all shapes and sizes, quite often, but not always, in pairs....er.....like us.
We did wonder who actually goes to work as everyone seemed to be out and about enjoying the early coolness walking, running or plodding.
![]() |
| Hercules Tower in A Coruña |
Apparently the Hercules Tower is the oldest lighthouse in the world - there has been a building of some sort here warning ships of dangerous rocks and 'land' since the 3rd Century even though we thought that THIS tower looked a lot younger than something built way back then.
It was great, however, that there was absolutely no rubbish, no advertising and no shops or suchlike for the whole way and so was very pleasant to wander along and take in the beauty of the place.
On our walk to get there there were only a few people but once we spied the bus park there was, suddenly, a multitude of folk .....almost burst into a carol then, sorry.....
Lots of people walked the short distance from their vehicle to the tower.
There was a very good piper half way up and he got a donation from us. His accompanying drummer was about 200 years old tho' and looked REALLY fed up at having to be there at all. Didn't take a pic as his scowl would've had Medusan effect!
Half way up the actual tower this is the view of where we'd walked, the original beach just visible in the lower right hand corner - there was such a queue to right up to the top of the tower that we didn't hang around and continued our walk.
It was all very spectacular in a touristy kind of way.
Here's the tower from the other side and looking out to sea. The Tall Ships are due to arrive on Saturday and already about 8 are in the harbour. We did see one big clipper coming in - too distant for a pic but we're going to visit that when we go back in tonight for out our nightly tapas etc....
You could still hear the piper (and grim-faced accomplice) from this far away, by the way.
So this (below) is where we will end up tonight in the hope that a few more Tall Ships will have sailed in and parked (or whatever it is that they do....sorry all you sailors!). I'd like to point out the glass-fronted buildings all along the harbour - this is, apparently, the back of the houses and if you walk up the main street their fronts are rather splendid too. We're unsure of the exact function of the glass windows but we suspect some sort of double-glazing insulation thing. No Tall Ships in any pics yet but I might post a couple when we get back later.
Last night we ate far to much in the cafe right by our hotel, in the middle of this industrial estate, and didn't even have a nightcap before bed! An enthusiastic waiter made us over-order and then we had to leave a glass of wine each 'cos we just couldn't fit any more in: what piggies we are!
![]() |
| A Coruña Harbour - getting ready for the arrival of the Tall Ships. |
Wednesday, 8 August 2012
Day 10 - A Coruña - 2nd day
Day 10 - A Coruña 2nd day
Today we had a bike day - we thought we'd explore the north coast just above A Coruña. Leaving A Coruña was a real hassle: roadworks abounded and there was SO much traffic and business. So very unlike the rest of the cities we have been in which have been calm and civilized. This is very busy, quite impersonal and the bar-folk and other tourists not as friendly/relaxed....or something.....
Our trip today was a ride of two moods. The city and towns which were clogged with traffic and really quite boring, and the mountains which were fab. Some of the scenery was breath-taking and, as everyone knows who has tried to take photos of magnificent scenery, our pics are a hint of what was there.
Needless to say we didn't take any pics of the traffic or boring towns - nor any audio of the hooting etc .......
On our way to the mountains we passed though acres of eucalyptus trees - used, I think I remember, for telephone poles but now I don't know what they'd be used for as very next several forests are concrete poles wired up.
There must be a correlation between Scotland and North Spain: Galicia and Gallic, the scenery here and the glens there. Here's a pic of heather - really pretty with fields and fields of the stuff.
Notice in this pic the first of the wind turbines of which there are THOUSANDS. Actually we thought they seem serene and beautiful but I know others with say they destroy the countryside.
We travelled to the top of the world - up and up, higher ad higher - just like on 'Beyond the Fringe' but, luckily, not sick at the top!
Here is the first of the blocks of wind farm turbines. They go on forever but as soon as the arrive while travelling the are gone having ridden over a hill or top of a pass.
We loved this part of the trip so much we did it twice - going both ways about 12 kms each time. The cloud had evaporated a bit by 5pm (we were there at about 11am first time and facing East) the sun lower in the sky gives a bit more of a sense of space in the picture even thought it was SO HOT then. The heat then suddenly dissipates at about 5.30 where the sun seems to give up trying to bake us all.
Rob had to pose for a pic (of course) and this a bit more of a bike and rider affair than the scenery and beautiful spot. If you look carefully you can see the other turbines in the distance.
I think you can 'double click' on the individual pictures, by the way, and they will blow up to a larger size so you can see more detail.
Lastly a video of the turbines actually turning. Not very noisy and all seem to be working hard in this windy spot. There is also a great video of us riding DOWN the other side but it is quite long and will take an age to upload so...... for those who are interested.... we'll show you when we get back!
Here's the top of the world ...moving. We're off to eat out tonight as we didn't do breakfast nor lunch and then tomorrow is a walking day to see some sights of A Coruña.
We found out that Jolie Brise (the boat Debbie was cook on in 1976-80 Tall Ships races) isn't here on Saturday as she's not doing the race. Wonders of the WWW: Rob being able to find that out from out hotel bedroom while Debbie was brushing her teeth - or something!
Here's the video. Hasta manaña!
Hey, I hope everyone is impressed with the new spelling of A Coruña.... bastante Castellano!
Today we had a bike day - we thought we'd explore the north coast just above A Coruña. Leaving A Coruña was a real hassle: roadworks abounded and there was SO much traffic and business. So very unlike the rest of the cities we have been in which have been calm and civilized. This is very busy, quite impersonal and the bar-folk and other tourists not as friendly/relaxed....or something.....
Our trip today was a ride of two moods. The city and towns which were clogged with traffic and really quite boring, and the mountains which were fab. Some of the scenery was breath-taking and, as everyone knows who has tried to take photos of magnificent scenery, our pics are a hint of what was there.
![]() |
| Eucalypyus trees - probably spelt 'rong |
Needless to say we didn't take any pics of the traffic or boring towns - nor any audio of the hooting etc .......
On our way to the mountains we passed though acres of eucalyptus trees - used, I think I remember, for telephone poles but now I don't know what they'd be used for as very next several forests are concrete poles wired up.
![]() |
| Heather |
There must be a correlation between Scotland and North Spain: Galicia and Gallic, the scenery here and the glens there. Here's a pic of heather - really pretty with fields and fields of the stuff.
Notice in this pic the first of the wind turbines of which there are THOUSANDS. Actually we thought they seem serene and beautiful but I know others with say they destroy the countryside.
![]() |
| Top of the World - number 1 |
We travelled to the top of the world - up and up, higher ad higher - just like on 'Beyond the Fringe' but, luckily, not sick at the top!
Here is the first of the blocks of wind farm turbines. They go on forever but as soon as the arrive while travelling the are gone having ridden over a hill or top of a pass.
We loved this part of the trip so much we did it twice - going both ways about 12 kms each time. The cloud had evaporated a bit by 5pm (we were there at about 11am first time and facing East) the sun lower in the sky gives a bit more of a sense of space in the picture even thought it was SO HOT then. The heat then suddenly dissipates at about 5.30 where the sun seems to give up trying to bake us all.
Rob had to pose for a pic (of course) and this a bit more of a bike and rider affair than the scenery and beautiful spot. If you look carefully you can see the other turbines in the distance.
I think you can 'double click' on the individual pictures, by the way, and they will blow up to a larger size so you can see more detail.
Lastly a video of the turbines actually turning. Not very noisy and all seem to be working hard in this windy spot. There is also a great video of us riding DOWN the other side but it is quite long and will take an age to upload so...... for those who are interested.... we'll show you when we get back!
Here's the top of the world ...moving. We're off to eat out tonight as we didn't do breakfast nor lunch and then tomorrow is a walking day to see some sights of A Coruña.
We found out that Jolie Brise (the boat Debbie was cook on in 1976-80 Tall Ships races) isn't here on Saturday as she's not doing the race. Wonders of the WWW: Rob being able to find that out from out hotel bedroom while Debbie was brushing her teeth - or something!
Here's the video. Hasta manaña!
Hey, I hope everyone is impressed with the new spelling of A Coruña.... bastante Castellano!
Tuesday, 7 August 2012
Day 9 - A Coruna
Day 9 - A Coruna
Today we travelled from Vigo to A Coruna in the North having decided that it was going to be just too hot to go South. There was another little niggle in that Rob hasn't done enough work on his Portuguese and it would be really annoying not to be able to communicate. So....we've stayed in Spain.
Last night we went into Vigo again and had some small tapas but just wandered about and came across a brilliant wind band made up of adults and youngsters. They played really well in front of an enthusiastic audience but, apart from the German couple in front of us, I think we were the only foreigners watching! There doesn't seem to be many non-Spanish people here even though it is gradually becoming our favourite place.
This sunset at about 10pm from our bedroom window near the harbour is part of it all.
Great sunset and perfect temperature in the evening for wandering and dipping into tapas bars for food etc.
We walked back and Debbie wanted just a last glass of wine. Rob had noticed a bar close to our hotel. Unfortunately we shared our glass with the vagrants of Vigo so had it really quickly, paid and almost ran home!
Here's a pic of the wind band and although small made a great sound - well in tune and pretty nimble with fingers too. All the drummers didn't have music and played by ear....er.... what a surprise!
A bit later as we were wandering we came across this folk groups with dancers. They were really good and neat and tidy in their performance. We really liked there pipers so Rob is going to look on Ebay for some Galician Pipes and perhaps will start a pipers band at school......here they are.
We had a lovely ride today - only 145 miles - but along the smoothest roads you're ever likely to find. Long evenly swooping bends perfect for riding at about 50mph and easy because there're so few other road users. Those that do pop along to share the road just slide by and are gone leaving the whole open road to us for another 20 - 30 minutes!
We stopped in absolute silence on the top of the world for this pic.
At lunchtime we stopped at the side of the road for a quick meal - octopus, 20 little salty green peppers and a salad. Delicious.
This evening we went, by bus, in to A Coruna and saw octopus being cooked in these copper kettles - looked a bit harsh for the poor old octopus.
Still having a great time and we're here for another 2 nights. The Tall Ships race is due to arrive here on Saturday - we're due to leave then but will try to pop down to the harbour in the morning to have a look.
In the centre of town this afternoon they were setting up a HUGE sound system for a rock concert - horrible sound and really dreadful guitarist was trying out how loud he could play. We decided that we were well-off well out of town and a bus journey away. We have a video but is just too awful to post!
More tomorrow!
Today we travelled from Vigo to A Coruna in the North having decided that it was going to be just too hot to go South. There was another little niggle in that Rob hasn't done enough work on his Portuguese and it would be really annoying not to be able to communicate. So....we've stayed in Spain.
Last night we went into Vigo again and had some small tapas but just wandered about and came across a brilliant wind band made up of adults and youngsters. They played really well in front of an enthusiastic audience but, apart from the German couple in front of us, I think we were the only foreigners watching! There doesn't seem to be many non-Spanish people here even though it is gradually becoming our favourite place.
This sunset at about 10pm from our bedroom window near the harbour is part of it all.
![]() |
| Sunset from bedroom window |
Great sunset and perfect temperature in the evening for wandering and dipping into tapas bars for food etc.
We walked back and Debbie wanted just a last glass of wine. Rob had noticed a bar close to our hotel. Unfortunately we shared our glass with the vagrants of Vigo so had it really quickly, paid and almost ran home!
![]() |
| The Las Delicias Wind Band |
Here's a pic of the wind band and although small made a great sound - well in tune and pretty nimble with fingers too. All the drummers didn't have music and played by ear....er.... what a surprise!
A bit later as we were wandering we came across this folk groups with dancers. They were really good and neat and tidy in their performance. We really liked there pipers so Rob is going to look on Ebay for some Galician Pipes and perhaps will start a pipers band at school......here they are.
![]() |
| Out and about from Vigo to A Coruna |
We had a lovely ride today - only 145 miles - but along the smoothest roads you're ever likely to find. Long evenly swooping bends perfect for riding at about 50mph and easy because there're so few other road users. Those that do pop along to share the road just slide by and are gone leaving the whole open road to us for another 20 - 30 minutes!
We stopped in absolute silence on the top of the world for this pic.
![]() |
| Octopus cooking |
At lunchtime we stopped at the side of the road for a quick meal - octopus, 20 little salty green peppers and a salad. Delicious.
This evening we went, by bus, in to A Coruna and saw octopus being cooked in these copper kettles - looked a bit harsh for the poor old octopus.
Still having a great time and we're here for another 2 nights. The Tall Ships race is due to arrive here on Saturday - we're due to leave then but will try to pop down to the harbour in the morning to have a look.
In the centre of town this afternoon they were setting up a HUGE sound system for a rock concert - horrible sound and really dreadful guitarist was trying out how loud he could play. We decided that we were well-off well out of town and a bus journey away. We have a video but is just too awful to post!
More tomorrow!
Monday, 6 August 2012
Day 8 - Vigo 2nd Day
Day 8 - Second day in Vigo
We've had a day off the bike today. Walked through Vigo, again, but this time without all the crowds processing 'cos of 'Semana Grande' - Santa Maria Saint day for the city.
Last night we somehow managed to get right in the way of the procession in front of all the crowds, and in with the police and no-one told us to go away, or ask what we were doing. We did think all this for ourselves and left to find somewhere to eat.
The beginning of the procession looked like this - we do have a rather dull video with hideous singing so that's not being posted!
There were thousands of people marching and singing. You would have thought it would be uplifting but we thought it was all quite dull and boring. VERY slow walking and terrible singing along to thin-sounding speakers and a not-very-good choir at the other end of the sound system.
Drinks and tapas beckoned rather so we had our choice of bars 'cos everyone else was out being boring!
Vigo is a lovely place - vigorous statues in the middle of the roundabouts and lots of cool new building mixed in with the very old.
Here's one of the statues on our way into the centre of the city in the morning. We went shopping in El Corte Ingles, a rather posh shopping centre/chain throughout Spain, and our credit card was rejected for the third time. We dropped into a cafe for a beer and phoned the card company and discovered we've been hacked into and now our credit card has been stopped. Makes me a bit nervous now that we are down to the last one and all our bookings are online and dependant on being able to search and book in via the internet. Let's hope that the last card stays safe!
The centre of the city is like this. There is a statue of the Vigo merman and this is the street that we got into the middle of the procession without meaning to.
Had a very good walk round the narrow streets and slowly drifted along avoiding the pedlars and hawkers and peeping into some interesting shops.
We went for lunch here and had a paella for two (maybe it was for three) and a free bottle of wine. Very cheery owner whose claim to fame was that he worked in a Kentucky Fried Chicken (I won't try to spell how he pronounced it) in Stockwell...... or Schto-ke-welley......tee hee!
This is how it looked at the start.
And this is what it looked like at the end......
Rob has tried (obviously not hard enough) to learn some Portuguese and feels not very good at it so we've decided not to go to Lisbon and to keep to the North of Spain as the weather looks as thought it's pepping up and it looks REALLY hot the further down south you go. We're going to A Coruna tomorrow to do some more coastal exploration and to see if we can actually see Finisterre this time!
In A Coruna we'll be in another decent hotel with weefee (wifi) so there'll be more posts for the next three days at least! No-one has commented much but lots of folk have been watching the blog so that's nice to know. We've been watching the Olympics but rather from the Spanish point of view - makes us feel quite sporty especially as we order another round of wine and tapas while our compatriots are winning medals!
We've had a day off the bike today. Walked through Vigo, again, but this time without all the crowds processing 'cos of 'Semana Grande' - Santa Maria Saint day for the city.
Last night we somehow managed to get right in the way of the procession in front of all the crowds, and in with the police and no-one told us to go away, or ask what we were doing. We did think all this for ourselves and left to find somewhere to eat.
The beginning of the procession looked like this - we do have a rather dull video with hideous singing so that's not being posted!
![]() |
| Procession at 7.30pm - can you see the candles? |
There were thousands of people marching and singing. You would have thought it would be uplifting but we thought it was all quite dull and boring. VERY slow walking and terrible singing along to thin-sounding speakers and a not-very-good choir at the other end of the sound system.
Drinks and tapas beckoned rather so we had our choice of bars 'cos everyone else was out being boring!
Vigo is a lovely place - vigorous statues in the middle of the roundabouts and lots of cool new building mixed in with the very old.
![]() |
| Roundabout statue |
Here's one of the statues on our way into the centre of the city in the morning. We went shopping in El Corte Ingles, a rather posh shopping centre/chain throughout Spain, and our credit card was rejected for the third time. We dropped into a cafe for a beer and phoned the card company and discovered we've been hacked into and now our credit card has been stopped. Makes me a bit nervous now that we are down to the last one and all our bookings are online and dependant on being able to search and book in via the internet. Let's hope that the last card stays safe!
![]() |
| The mer-man of Vigo (er...at the top of the pole) |
The centre of the city is like this. There is a statue of the Vigo merman and this is the street that we got into the middle of the procession without meaning to.
Had a very good walk round the narrow streets and slowly drifted along avoiding the pedlars and hawkers and peeping into some interesting shops.
![]() |
| LUNCH - start |
We went for lunch here and had a paella for two (maybe it was for three) and a free bottle of wine. Very cheery owner whose claim to fame was that he worked in a Kentucky Fried Chicken (I won't try to spell how he pronounced it) in Stockwell...... or Schto-ke-welley......tee hee!
This is how it looked at the start.
![]() |
| LUNCH - end |
And this is what it looked like at the end......
Rob has tried (obviously not hard enough) to learn some Portuguese and feels not very good at it so we've decided not to go to Lisbon and to keep to the North of Spain as the weather looks as thought it's pepping up and it looks REALLY hot the further down south you go. We're going to A Coruna tomorrow to do some more coastal exploration and to see if we can actually see Finisterre this time!
In A Coruna we'll be in another decent hotel with weefee (wifi) so there'll be more posts for the next three days at least! No-one has commented much but lots of folk have been watching the blog so that's nice to know. We've been watching the Olympics but rather from the Spanish point of view - makes us feel quite sporty especially as we order another round of wine and tapas while our compatriots are winning medals!
Sunday, 5 August 2012
Day 7 - Santiago to Vigo
Day 7 - Santiago to Vigo
We had a slow sort of day today getting from Santiago to Vigo having realised that we don't have two but four days to get to Lisbon! So we're going to spend 2 days in Vigo and tomorrow is going to be a non-biking day.
We left Santiago via these cool modern buildings - something to do with the university, we think.
![]() |
| University buildings in Santiago |
We had to make a special detour to get these pics. Only knew they existed because we went the wrong way YESTERDAY!
We left as the remnants of the rain was trying to squeeze themselves from the sky and decided that we would ride AWAY from the cold and rain and find the sun. BBC weather said that Vigo was where the sun was shining so here we are!
![]() |
| Bridge to Illa de Arousa |
We decided to get from Santiago to Vigo by the coast road - so 125 miles at between 25-30mph. This took us past vineyards - vines growing tall and so hanging rather than in rows like in France. We crossed over this bridge to the Illa de Arousa - bridge was great but the Illa rather a tourist and beach-lounger affair so we didn't even touch the ground with our feet!
![]() |
| Boats off Illa de Arousa |
There were some good sights though and this the harbour at Illa de Arousa. Weather was following us all the time trying to threaten rain and cold but we kept ahead and it's now given up...thankfully.
Here're the hanging vines that go on for miles and miles. We've had some good wine both in tabernas and from shops. We had a really good Tempranillo for 1E90 - could've been nasty but we were pleasantly surprised.
![]() |
| Eyeing up the terrace for our first beer! |
We spied this terrace that overlooks the harbour in Vigo and climbed up and had a cold dark beer looking out at people disembarking from the tour boats.
In Vigo tonight is some sort of Saint festival. Hundreds and hundreds of folk carrying lit candles (in the blazing sunshine - so a bit pointless, we thought). We popped into the church in the middle of town which was PACKED so much we couldn't get in through the front door! We abandoned that and walked back to our hotel contra a few more hundred people heading towards the festivities. Rob asked and old woman, who was selling the candles, what it was all about. She told him about the festival but seemed quite appalled that he didn't know about which Saint's Day it was and what the candles were for. Rob said 'gracias' but she let out a big huff as she took some more cash for another couple of candles! We're back off into town at 7.30 to see what is is all about - pics tomorrow. On the way though we did pass this troupe of young pipers and stopped to do a quick video.
We also saw these children walking down the street having been to the church, presumably. We thought they were sweet!
And, by the way, we WERE in the tapas bar at 9.45 as we said we would be yesterday. We were just a bit to the left of the guy with the glasses but it WAS FANTASTIC! ....and we probably spent too long there. Here's a reminder of what it looked like.
![]() |
| Debbie and Rob sat (for about an hour) four people to the LEFT of the guy with the glasses. Muy sabroso, bastante allegre y, probablemente, demasiado vino y comida! |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)






















































